tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77357226444849903262012-02-29T04:36:30.274-08:00Route setting tips, techniques and thoughts for route setters of any level. Learn how to set better, more interesting routes safely and efficiently.RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.comBlogger271100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-35220000935568277242012-02-12T14:54:00.000-08:002012-02-20T17:46:53.006-08:00

The first time I saw this problem was in Between the Trees. Ty Landman makes short work of it, though not quite as short as Adam Ondra's recent flash ascent.The problem links some interesting and difficult climbing into the 8A+ stand start. The swinging heel is what I find most interesting, because it bridges between two otherwise basic body positions. Also, dynamic foot movements are

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-71849244061354785462012-02-12T13:46:00.000-08:002012-02-13T08:32:18.619-08:00

This is a lot more specific than the first post on ergonomics. Before I get into this post, please note that I am not a medical professional. This is a basic overview of climbing movement as it relates to ergonomics; it's not a complete list, just food for thought.In the last ergonomics post, we talked about pressure. Well, it's time for another physics lesson. This one's about levers. A lever is

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-2406302176738545852012-01-23T09:06:00.000-08:002012-01-23T09:27:54.153-08:00

The entire idea of movement in climbing revolves around moving from one body position to the next. Knowing that it's more of a gradient rather than a binary concept, let's quickly look at the two main types of movement:In more static climbing, a climber uses the holds they have to move comfortably into a body position where they are ready to change to the next hold. Examples of this might be

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-61375268445413814882012-01-09T12:24:00.000-08:002012-01-10T10:06:49.539-08:00

What do newspapers, websites, household goods, food, computers, cars, and virtually every other consumable product have in common that routesetting often lacks? QA.What is QA for routesetting?Good forerunning - ego at the door; objectivity; fair, concise and constructive communication. No one should be exempt from having their routes forerun.A plan for improvement - if you have too many of a

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-49143683977625194332012-01-03T22:06:00.000-08:002012-01-04T10:22:00.972-08:00

This is a concept I've been wanting to get to for a while. Most recently a nagging finger injury brought it to the front of my mind, as the gym I train at most frequently has a bad habit. I've covered this problem in this blog before: who cares about the V0 climbers when you climb V10? A jug is a jug is a jug, right? Unfortunately, basic physics interferes with this notion:Force / Area =

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-40019769829516392372012-01-03T10:03:00.000-08:002012-01-03T10:07:48.002-08:00

"Feet outside suck. People need to learn how to smear better.""Outside, the holds are not always comfortable.""Well, Problem X at our local crag has this huge move in it that no girl can do. This move is just like that one."Yep. Sometimes, outdoor climbing is unfair, sharp, and miserable.It also rains outside, but I don't see anyone trying to patent a climbing gym weather system.The bonus of

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-24095600463130460502011-12-09T13:22:00.000-08:002011-12-09T14:17:03.170-08:00

One of my favorite boulder problems ever is The Hulk, in the Happies. My first trip to Bishop, I gleefully ran laps on it. Feel free to google it - as you can tell from the results, it's a very popular problem.What makes the Hulk so classic is its uniqueness. It's rare that a combination of holds creates such an intriguing sequence for human physiology. And, while there are multiple ways to go

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-64914372937346544082011-06-06T10:59:00.000-07:002011-06-06T11:43:00.323-07:00

One topic crucial to routesetting that hasn't been very well covered in this blog is forerunning. Forerunning is a hard job. Competitors are prepared, well-rested and psyched, dealing with one problem at a time. Forerunners are often tired, stressed, working on multiple problems or routes near their limit at once. Taking the physical and emotional stresses of comp organization into account, it's

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-87299197801228621602011-05-30T09:05:00.000-07:002011-05-30T09:05:00.078-07:00

"That hold is tweaky.""That foot is too high.""That move is huge."Is it so simple? What makes movement hard? It's easy to try a move, "feel" how hard it is, and simply end your analysis there. However, climbing is a technical activity, and the levels of complexity are almost endless. Many of the best routesetters simply intuitively know what's hard about a move, and over time that skill can be

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-22134202231282773432011-05-23T09:00:00.000-07:002011-05-23T09:15:58.696-07:00

Our job as routesetters is to set the stage for a relationship between a climber and the wall. That relationship is the foundation of the rock climbing experience, whether it's indoors or outdoors, boulder or route. Every sensory element in the equation has potential to affect the climber's experience: the fingertips feeling texture, the ears hearing belayer calls or the cheering crowd, and,

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-81452845994458628602011-03-19T17:51:00.000-07:002011-03-19T18:24:41.595-07:00

The frog pinch is a pretty specific move, so I thought it would make an excellent candidate for my next movement analysis. I set this move on accident a few times, but the first time I forced it was at the level 2 USAC clinic, with E-Grips' Myorcan Tufapinch. I was somewhat on the spot, since I was setting it specifically for Chris Danielson himself. However, I didn't struggle with it and

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-91723559001161812192011-03-03T10:19:00.000-08:002011-03-03T17:09:39.502-08:00

I had the pleasure of reviewing the Atomik Font Pinches recently. Here's a primer on how I review holds.Set Overview / SummaryTwo small yellow bubble pinches (quite poor) - I mostly used these as bumps. They'd make for great technical holds on a vertical wall.One red blob edge - A great directional slimper, great smear foot when used directionally. The most directional of the bunch, and probably

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-86030892671069199982011-02-09T13:15:00.000-08:002011-02-09T13:49:03.251-08:00

"Which holds should I buy?" - in a flooded market, this is a common question.There are plenty of sites and magazines reviewing climbing holds. From the perspective of a climber buying the holds, that's great. People can pick up a copy of Climbing mag or browse the web and figure out which holds are the most ergonomic. Or which holds have the best texture. Some sites cover how the holds were

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-62504329933441791972011-02-05T12:50:00.001-08:002011-02-05T13:00:07.128-08:00

One of the fundamentals of being a good routesetter is being efficient. Efficiency can be a fluid term depending on your setting environment, so for the purposes of this post, let's define being an efficient routesetter as striking a balance between the physical rigors and time constraints of setting, while meeting your specific setting goals.If your gym has a steep lead wall, you've

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-26774911263186442332010-12-23T13:05:00.000-08:002010-12-23T12:45:40.515-08:00

Warning: This post contains opinions. If you're allergic to these, proceed at your own discretion.Well I haven't done it yet, so I figured I'd do a post on holds. Since it's the holidays anyways, I figured I might as well do a "fun" post. These are some of my favorites/obsessions right now. I am not sponsored or paid by any hold companies and profit from mentioning them in no way whatsoever. But

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-7299778648258886572010-12-21T12:59:00.000-08:002010-12-21T13:00:26.435-08:00

(While I finish up some posts in progress about the "routesetting biz", here's a post I wrote this summer. An ode to a move..)I've been thinking a lot about the drive-by. It's been popular lately on the competition circuit:Battle in the Bubble (3:30)Teva Games 2009 (0:28 / deeplinked)World Cup Vail 2010 (4:45)Recently, I set a route up the front 45' of our boulder that featured a big drive-by

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-6436027416902010682010-12-06T11:26:00.000-08:002010-12-06T11:53:53.065-08:00

An unfortunate side effect of the symbiosis between climbing and routesetting is that it's hard not to drift between focusing on one or the other. I spent a good chunk of this year traveling and climbing, with most of my actual setting during that time being a week here and a week there for competitions. There's nothing wrong with setting for comps - but it's hard not to get a bit rusty when

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-6853936043008140802010-10-26T10:30:00.000-07:002010-10-26T10:54:41.086-07:00

Dear Gym Managers,This is what it looks like when you let your setters go nuts: Spot setting blog.Seems to me like they afford their setters (and community) complete creative control over the entire experience. This is probably one of the most interesting, unique and exciting competitions in the country.I very much doubt it's a coincidence that it has massive attendance and community support.

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-34364510471397030732010-10-12T16:04:00.000-07:002010-10-12T16:27:46.869-07:00

I read an interesting climbing physiology article that made a distinction between dynamic and static balance. This got me thinking quite a bit about balance, both in general, and as an aspect of climbing.Having good balance seems like it can be distilled down to these concepts pretty easy. Imagine a guy on a highline. While he's making slow, gentle foot movements, he's maintaining good

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-22085656597448540292010-10-09T12:16:00.000-07:002010-10-09T12:30:22.971-07:00

I've been following around my "other" job lately, and I haven't had a ton of time to set routes. While this can be frustrating, the upshot is that I've had plenty of time to actually go climbing. Here in the PNW, the weather in October can be less than forgiving, so most of that time has been spent indoors.Actually, in my climbing career this is the first time I've regularly trained at a gym away

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-74510386807351938162010-09-01T19:36:00.000-07:002010-09-01T20:28:36.723-07:00

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, or so they say.I recently returned from a multi-week bouldering trip. Our local member's party was coming up and I planned on setting for it. I had just experienced a few new outdoor areas for the first time - including the stunning granite paradise of central Washington. I was more than ready to put brush to canvas, as it were.I was especially eager

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-16107598016194819142010-06-11T22:38:00.001-07:002010-06-11T22:40:38.130-07:00

I'm up in Portland for the USAC level 1 clinic. So psyched to set on new terrain, with new holds, in a new gym! It's run by Molly Beard and being held at ClubSport in Tigard. Should be a blast. I'll post updates on the whole shebang as it occurs.Not much else to report - setting some more dynamic hard routes in the gym lately, which is good. Always nice to see climbers forcing themselves to

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-62183688501459364062010-05-27T09:50:00.000-07:002010-05-27T10:09:52.849-07:00

A lot of the time, it doesn't take much to spark inspiration for setting. I get a lot of my inspiration from watching other climbers - through media, in person outside, or playing add-on in the gym. In that spirit, I'll be uploading videos of routes in our gym(s) here, that have fun or noteworthy moves. I'll try to include one harder move and one easier move in these kind of videos.Here's a video

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-69262693158746743392010-05-23T12:42:00.001-07:002010-05-23T12:49:21.106-07:00

I think if you reduce all climbing to its basest elements, you'll find that body position is the prevailing factor.Balance can be important on a route, but only because having the right balance or the right points of contact allows proper body position. Finding balance literally IS body position.Distance is a function of difficulty on a route, but only because it means the climber must create a

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-62039898831549112242010-05-11T12:51:00.001-07:002010-05-23T18:16:42.176-07:00

This might feel like obvious knowledge, but I still like to think about it. Basics are powerful.Defined crux, or consistent difficulty?Cryptic, beta-intensive climbs, or flash fodder?Aggressive power moves or delicate footwork?Big moves or small moves?High feet, low feet, slopey feet, edging feet?The short answer to this line of questioning is yes. Not all at the same time, not all on the same

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-15450604764476043372010-05-06T11:21:00.000-07:002010-05-23T18:17:42.362-07:00

As a preface, for this post general terms like "stronger climber," "better climber" etc. are interchangeable terms for what is really a vague system of measuring more factors than I could list. To simplify things, just assume that I'm referring to a climber who, for the relative grade, has an average ability in all areas of climbing: power, lockoff strength, technical aptitude, mental acuity, etc

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7735722644484990326.post-26587870423970175752010-05-05T21:25:00.000-07:002010-05-05T22:04:43.938-07:00

Welcome!I have a lot of goals in starting this site. Hopefully, it'll be an outlet for my thoughts on routesetting. My aim is to look at both the artistic and scientific sides of the trade. I enjoy the logical side of rock climbing: causality, sequencing and problem solving. From the most obvious foot choice to the most subtle hip turnout, these mini puzzles are my inspiration to climb and

RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17404426342876959330noreply@blogger.com0